Mosfellssveit - a historical hotspot

The natural landscape of Mosfellsbær is rugged, and 80% of the district lies more than 100 metres above sea level. Hills such as Mosfell, Grímannsfell, Helgafell and Úlfarsfell, all 200-300 metres high, dominate the landscape; their slopes are grassy with screes. Two valleys lie between the hills, Mosfellsdalur and Reykjadalur. Most of the district's population live in the latter valley.

Under much of Mosfellsbær lies a layer of basaltic lava, which can be seen here and there in hills and rocky outcrops. Pyroclastite, formed by volcanic eruptions under glacial ice, are also noticeable in the geology of the area. The landscape of Mosfellsbær is largely a product of glaciation in the Ice Age. Rocks have been eroded by glacial ice, and the Mosfellsdalur valley is believed to have been formed in the Ice Age as a lagoon at the snout of a glacier; this explains the unusual thickness of the soil in the valley, up to 18 metres.

 

The history of Mosfellsbær goes back as far as the history of Iceland. When Ingólfur Arnarson, a Norwegian Viking, initiated the settlement of Iceland around 874 AD, the Mosfellsbær region was one of the first districts to be settled. The Book of Settlements (Landnámabók), which tells the story of the first settlers, says: There was a man named Þórður skeggi. He was the son of Hrappur Bjarnason buna. Þórður was married to Vilborg Ósvaldsdóttir. Their daughter was Helga, who was married to Ketilbjörn the Aged. Þórður went to Iceland and settled, with Ingólfur's permission, between the Úlfarsá river and Leiruvogur. He lived at Skeggjastaðir. Many notable men in Iceland are descended from Þórður.

An important resource in Mosfellsbær in its geothermal energy, which is found mainly in two places: at Suður-Reykir in Reykjadalur, and in Mosfellsdalur. Hot springs on the surface have gradually dried up after drilling for hot water began in 1933. Most of the natural hot water from the Mosfellsbær springs is piped to Reykjavík for use by the district heating system.
Population

 

In 1900, the population of the Mosfellsbær district (then Mosfellssveit) was a mere 400, but the community has grown rapidly, especially in the latter half of the 20th century. Utilisation of geothermal resources, and development of a woollens industry, led to growth of the community. Travel between Mosfellssveit and Reykjavík improved dramatically with the laying of a tarmac road in 1972, and this led to yet more development, as it became possible to commute between the two places. The population of the community has risen steadily in recent decades, and was on 1. december 1999 5.849 and on 1 December 2005 its population was 7,200 inhabitants.

Álafoss

The Álafoss waterfall in the Varmá river has an important place in modern Icelandic history: as long ago as 1896, the energy of the waterfall was harnessed to power a woollen mill. This old structure still stands, among later buildings on the site. the Álafoss woollens factory is now a thing of the past, but woollens are still produced on the old factory site, though on a smaller scale. Today the former Álafoss factory buildings house artists' studios and galleries. The historical role of Álafoss in the development of Mosfellsbær is commemorated by the humorous name of the local restaurant Álafoss föt bezt (Álafoss Clothes are Best) a reference to advertisements for Álafoss products when the company was in its heyday.

 

Rivers

The rivers of Mosfellsbær are numerous: Leirvogsá, Kaldakvísl which flows into Suðurá, and Varmá, which was formerly harnessed to power the Álafoss woollen mills. The mouth of the Varmá river is a conservation area, due to the presence of a very rare plant species, the saltmarsh rush (Juncus gerardi), and the whole of the Varmá river, classified as an area of natural beauty, is one of the attractions of the district. The river boasts two picturesque waterfalls, Reykjafoss and Álafoss.

 

Blikastaðir
Blikastaðir was a large farm estate down the centuries and until recent decades. Near the coast on the Blikastaðir estate are remnants of old man-made structures, dating back to the time when Blikastaðir was a landing-place for ships and a trading station.

 

Hills
The Mosfellsbær area boasts several imposing hills, that command panoramic views of the surrounding country: Grímannsfell, also known as Grímarsfell (482m above sea level), Æsustaðafell (220m), Helgafell (216m), Mosfell (276m), Reykjafell (273m) and Úlfarsfell (295m).

 

Waterfalls
Many picturesque waterfalls are found in the Mosfellsbær district, most of them easily accessible.

Álafoss (Eel Falls) is located close to the buildings of the old woollen mills, which derived their name from the waterfall.
Helgufoss (Helga's Falls) is in the Kaldakvísl river, under the slopes of Grímannsfell. Tradition says that the waterfall is named after Helga, the daughter of saga character Bárður Snæfellsás.

Tröllafoss (Troll Falls) in the Leirvogsá river lies at the northernmost edge of the district. The waterfall is a conservation area. The waterfall tumbles into a spectacular rocky gorge, and below the cascade are deep potholes that have been eroded by the river. Tröllafoss is not accessible by road, but is easily reached on horseback, and is about a 20-minute walk from Skeggjastaðir.
Tungufoss (Tongue Falls) is in the Kaldakvísl river.
Laxnes and Laxness

The farm of Laxnes, in the Mosfellsdalur valley, is probably best known as the childhood home of novelist Halldór Laxness, the Grand Old Man of Icelandic letters, who won the Nobel Prize for Literature in 1955. He adopted the name "Laxness" in honour of his old home at Laxnes. From 1945 until his death in 1998 he lived at nearby Gljúfrasteinn.
Today Laxnes is a horse farm, that offers riding tours to visitors, whether beginners or experts, individuals or groups.

 

Mosfell
Mosfell, which is located beneath the hill of the same name, is a church site that dates back to the early days of Christianity in Iceland, after AD 1000. The Mosfellsbær district derives its name from Mosfell.
Saga hero and poet Egill Skallagrímsson is said to have lived at Mosfell in his old age, and to be buried there. According to tradition, just before he died Egill secretly buried a cache of silver, which remains hidden somewhere nearby.

 

Reykjalundur
Reykjalundur, once a sanatorium for tuberculosis patients, is now a rehabilitation centre which offers treatment and therapy for a variety of ailments, and also operates a plastics factory.
Mementoes of World War II

In 1940, British forces occupied Iceland, and a large military camp was set up in Mosfellssveit. At that time, the population of the district was about 500, while military personnel numbered as many as 15,000. They built Nissen huts at various places including Helgafell and Reykir.
After the departure of the military, the buildings they left behind were used by the local people. The Reykjalundur sanatorium, founded at that time, was initially housed in these military buildings. Little remains today as a reminder of this military presence, but one Nissen hut is still inhabited, and a concrete water tower constructed by the British still stands at Ásar below Helgafell.

 

Lakes
The lakes of the Mosfellsbær district have all been formed by glacial erosion. The largest lakes are Leirvogsvatn and Hafravatn, which is about one km2 in area, and up to 28 metres deep. Other lakes include Langavatn, Selvatn and Geldingatjörn.
At the east of Hafravatn is an old corral, which was used in former times during the autumn sheep round-up. The corral, which has been restored, is a popular port of call for visitors to Mosfellsbær.

Suður-Reykir
Suður-Reykir, generally known simply as Reykir, has been a large farm estate for centuries, and is now a poultry farm. Hot springs at Reykir provide natural hot water which is piped 18 kilometres to Reykjavík for use by the district heating system. Geothermal water has been piped to Reykjavík from Reykir since 1943. The first greenhouse in Iceland heated by geothermal energy was built at Reykir in 1923.

 

Varmá
Varmá is the name of a river, and also of the old farmstead that stood by the river. Varmá is now the educational centre of Mosfellsbær, with schools, sports facilities and a swimming pool. Nearly 1,000 children and young people attend school at Varmá.