The natural landscape of Mosfellsbær is rugged, and 80%
of the district lies more than 100 metres above sea level. Hills such as
Mosfell, Grímannsfell, Helgafell and Úlfarsfell, all 200-300 metres high,
dominate the landscape; their slopes are grassy with screes. Two valleys lie
between the hills, Mosfellsdalur and Reykjadalur. Most of the district's
population live in the latter valley.
Under much of Mosfellsbær lies a layer of basaltic lava, which can be
seen here and there in hills and rocky outcrops. Pyroclastite, formed by
volcanic eruptions under glacial ice, are also noticeable in the geology of the
area. The landscape of Mosfellsbær is largely a product of glaciation in the Ice
Age. Rocks have been eroded by glacial ice, and the Mosfellsdalur valley is
believed to have been formed in the Ice Age as a lagoon at the snout of a
glacier; this explains the unusual thickness of the soil in the valley, up to 18
metres.
The history of Mosfellsbær goes back as far as the history of Iceland. When
Ingólfur Arnarson,
a Norwegian Viking, initiated the settlement of
Iceland around 874 AD, the Mosfellsbær region was one of the first districts to
be settled. The Book of Settlements (Landnámabók), which tells the story of the
first settlers, says: There was a man named Þórður skeggi. He was the son of
Hrappur Bjarnason buna. Þórður was married to Vilborg Ósvaldsdóttir. Their
daughter was Helga, who was married to Ketilbjörn the Aged. Þórður went to
Iceland and settled, with Ingólfur's permission, between the Úlfarsá river and
Leiruvogur. He lived at Skeggjastaðir. Many notable men in Iceland are descended
from Þórður.
An important resource in Mosfellsbær in its geothermal energy, which is
found mainly in two places: at Suður-Reykir in Reykjadalur, and in
Mosfellsdalur. Hot springs on the surface have gradually dried up after drilling
for hot water began in 1933. Most of the natural hot water from the Mosfellsbær
springs is piped to Reykjavík for use by the district heating
system.
Population
In 1900, the population of the Mosfellsbær district (then Mosfellssveit) was
a mere 400, but the community has grown rapidly, especially in the latter half
of the 20th century. Utilisation of geothermal resources, and development of a
woollens industry, led to growth of the community. Travel between Mosfellssveit
and Reykjavík improved dramatically with the laying of a tarmac road in 1972,
and this led to yet more development, as it became possible to commute between
the two places. The population of the community has risen steadily in recent
decades, and was on 1. december 1999 5.849 and on 1 December 2005 its population
was 7,200 inhabitants.
Álafoss
The Álafoss waterfall in the Varmá river has an important place in modern
Icelandic history: as long ago as 1896, the energy of the waterfall was
harnessed to power a woollen mill. This old structure still stands, among later
buildings on the site. the Álafoss woollens factory is now a thing of the past,
but woollens are still produced on the old factory site, though on a smaller
scale. Today the former Álafoss factory buildings house artists' studios and
galleries. The historical role of Álafoss in the development of Mosfellsbær is
commemorated by the humorous name of the local restaurant Álafoss föt bezt
(Álafoss Clothes are Best) a reference to advertisements for Álafoss products
when the company was in its heyday.
Rivers
The rivers of Mosfellsbær are numerous: Leirvogsá, Kaldakvísl which flows
into Suðurá, and Varmá, which was formerly harnessed to power the Álafoss
woollen mills. The mouth of the Varmá river is a conservation area, due to the
presence of a very rare plant species, the saltmarsh rush (Juncus gerardi), and
the whole of the Varmá river, classified as an area of natural beauty, is one of
the attractions of the district. The river boasts two picturesque waterfalls,
Reykjafoss and Álafoss.
Blikastaðir
Blikastaðir was a large farm estate down the
centuries and until recent decades. Near the coast on the Blikastaðir estate are
remnants of old man-made structures, dating back to the time when Blikastaðir
was a landing-place for ships and a trading station.
Hills
The Mosfellsbær area boasts several imposing
hills, that command panoramic views of the surrounding country: Grímannsfell,
also known as Grímarsfell (482m above sea level), Æsustaðafell (220m), Helgafell
(216m), Mosfell (276m), Reykjafell (273m) and Úlfarsfell (295m).
Waterfalls
Many picturesque waterfalls are found in
the Mosfellsbær district, most of them easily accessible.
Álafoss (Eel Falls) is located close to the buildings of
the old woollen mills, which derived their name from the waterfall.
Helgufoss
(Helga's Falls) is in the Kaldakvísl river, under the slopes of Grímannsfell.
Tradition says that the waterfall is named after Helga, the daughter of saga
character Bárður Snæfellsás.
Tröllafoss (Troll Falls) in the Leirvogsá river lies at
the northernmost edge of the district. The waterfall is a conservation area. The
waterfall tumbles into a spectacular rocky gorge, and below the cascade are deep
potholes that have been eroded by the river. Tröllafoss is not accessible by
road, but is easily reached on horseback, and is about a 20-minute walk from
Skeggjastaðir.
Tungufoss (Tongue Falls) is in the Kaldakvísl river.
Laxnes
and Laxness
The farm of Laxnes, in the Mosfellsdalur valley, is
probably best known as the childhood home of novelist Halldór Laxness, the Grand
Old Man of Icelandic letters, who won the Nobel Prize for Literature in 1955. He
adopted the name "Laxness" in honour of his old home at Laxnes. From 1945 until
his death in 1998 he lived at nearby Gljúfrasteinn.
Today Laxnes is a horse
farm, that offers riding tours to visitors, whether beginners or experts,
individuals or groups.
Mosfell
Mosfell, which is located beneath the hill of
the same name, is a church site that dates back to the early days of
Christianity in Iceland, after AD 1000. The Mosfellsbær district derives its
name from Mosfell.
Saga hero and poet Egill Skallagrímsson is said to have
lived at Mosfell in his old age, and to be buried there. According to tradition,
just before he died Egill secretly buried a cache of silver, which remains
hidden somewhere nearby.
Reykjalundur
Reykjalundur, once a sanatorium for
tuberculosis patients, is now a rehabilitation centre which offers treatment and
therapy for a variety of ailments, and also operates a plastics
factory.
Mementoes of World War II
In 1940, British forces occupied Iceland, and a large military camp was set
up in Mosfellssveit. At that time, the population of the district was about 500,
while military personnel numbered as many as 15,000. They built Nissen huts at
various places including Helgafell and Reykir.
After the departure of the
military, the buildings they left behind were used by the local people. The
Reykjalundur sanatorium, founded at that time, was initially housed in these
military buildings. Little remains today as a reminder of this military
presence, but one Nissen hut is still inhabited, and a concrete water tower
constructed by the British still stands at Ásar below Helgafell.
Lakes
The lakes of the Mosfellsbær district have all been
formed by glacial erosion. The largest lakes are Leirvogsvatn and Hafravatn,
which is about one km2 in area, and up to 28 metres deep. Other lakes include
Langavatn, Selvatn and Geldingatjörn.
At the east of Hafravatn is an old
corral, which was used in former times during the autumn sheep round-up. The
corral, which has been restored, is a popular port of call for visitors to
Mosfellsbær.
Suður-Reykir
Suður-Reykir, generally known simply as
Reykir, has been a large farm estate for centuries, and is now a poultry farm.
Hot springs at Reykir provide natural hot water which is piped 18 kilometres to
Reykjavík for use by the district heating system. Geothermal water has been
piped to Reykjavík from Reykir since 1943. The first greenhouse in Iceland
heated by geothermal energy was built at Reykir in 1923.
Varmá
Varmá is the name of a river, and also of the old
farmstead that stood by the river. Varmá is now the educational centre of
Mosfellsbær, with schools, sports facilities and a swimming pool. Nearly 1,000
children and young people attend school at Varmá.